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Umbrella skirt covers seasonal fashion needs

August 22nd, 2011 Leave a comment Go to comments

While I was visiting a friend of mine in Florida a few years back, I noticed she wore a skirt that you showed how to make. It had just one panel that was repeated all the way around the garment. I don’t remember your offering this pattern, but I hope you still have it available. If so, how can I get one?

When I first offered this skirt, I offered only the instructions on how to draft the skirt pattern. But because I’ve received so many requests for it, I now have a pattern for the Umbrella Skirt. This is a classic from way back, and I know you will be making it again and again – for every season of the year.

To receive the pattern, send $5, plus 50 cents postage and handling, to Sandra Kelly Patterns, Box 2485, Shawnee Mission, Kan. 66201. I’ll also include instructions for a wonderful hemming technique that is used in the garment industry for skirts such as these. The pattern is multi sized, sizes 4-20. Altering chiffon

Question: We are getting ready to take a cruise, and I have made myself a chiffon butterfly top to wear over plain evening wear. It has a simple jewel neckline that is either too high or too tight, for it doesn’t feel comfortable when I wear it. I have a short, heavy neck that has always given me fitting troubles. I need to know the steps to take to correct the neck fit. – Mrs. F.T., Palm Harbor.

Answer: The byword for this alteration is “caution.“ Chiffon is a beautiful fabric, and you don’t want to stretch the neck out of shape as you alter it. The neck edge is on the bias, and chiffon is a fragile fabric. So carefully proceed as follows:

1. Cut out the front and back neck facings using some sturdy paper. Pin them together at the shoulder seams and set aside.

2. Put on your butterfly top and place a string along the neck where it feels most comfortable. Pin in place to the fabric and then remove the top.

3. Position the paper facing between the outer garment and facing. Baste directly over the new neckline, catching only the bodice and paper facing – not the original facing.

4. Remove the original facing very carefully and then trim the neck down to 5/8-inch from your new neckline.

5. Use the paper facing to cut out a new facing, and apply to the garment.

Note: Usually the back neck edge does not have to be altered as much as the front, and sometimes not at all. It would be a mistake to think that because you are lowering the neck 1/4-inch in front, you would automatically do this all the way around.

And if the amount you need to remove is not too great, you can simply reshape by sewing a new neckline without removing the original facing at all. This would be the ideal solution. Seam pressing

Question: I am working on a heavy piece of cotton and am having difficulty pressing the seams flat. I have tried steam-pressing and even that doesn’t work; they keep trying to bounce back out after pressing. How do I flatten them? – Mrs. B.P., Galesburg, Mich.

Answer: What you need to do is steam-press the seams first – that will break down the fabric’s resistance while the pressure from the iron will force them out flat.

Once flat, you must then press with a dry iron to remove the moisture and once again “harden“ the fabric. Of course, always use a press cloth. Dried in a flat position, the seams will remain flat. This “steam-dry“ technique gives professional results, so remember it this fall when you begin working with wools and want a nice, flat edge.

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